2006 LT40 Hydraulic

[TreeBones]

Your mill is one year newer than mine, otherwise the same. I have no support equipment but move a lot of logs and lumber with my PU.

[Backwoods sawyer]

I keep looking at getting a basic mill as a second mill that I can use for cutting longer pieces with, so far it has not penciled out to be viable. I swing mill with a wide slabber seems to be looking like a better option as someone always seems to want that over sized log milled up around here.

[TreeBones]

a wide slabber seems to be looking like a better option as someone always seems to want that over sized log milled up around here.

I have a 48" Pondorosa Pine and will probably just free hand rip it in half so it will fit on the mill.

[crazy]

I have a question about my mill. When I cut, the corners aren't square. Maybe a couple degrees off. The blade is parallel to the deck. Do I have to adjust the dogs?

[Chuck White]

I have a question about my mill. When I cut, the corners aren't square. Maybe a couple degrees off. The blade is parallel to the deck. Do I have to adjust the dogs?

Look in the alignment section of your WM books and you'll find that the blade,
close to the outer blade guide roller is supposed to be 1/16" higher than the
blade is near the inner blade guide roller from the deck.

This may not be your trouble, but then again, it could be.

[crazy]

That's one of the problems, I can't find my manual. What you say makes sense because when I clamp a log, it always gets pushed over no matter how careful I am.

[TreeBones]

I usually back off the clamp and keep as little pressure on the cant as needed. Otherwise I have a problem with the clamp pushing the cant out of square.

When I make cants I try to remove wood from the top (of the cant) and then the bottom without unclamping or moving the log or cant. By doing this the finished cant has two sides that will always come out parallel, this keeps all the boards cut from it nice and even. If you keep rolling the log to make a cant it can be hard to keep the bottom of the cant flat on the deck (I call them bedrails).

I like to keep a framing square handy when clamping and use the blade to square up the second cut to the first one. This helps if your dogs (stops) are out of wack. I will use this method for all clamping if I start having problems keeping things square. Can take a little more time but makes for nice finished product.

[Backwoods sawyer]

When I bought my mill (used) I was having problems with not getting square cants. I went thru and leveled the bed rails, squared the dogs to the bed rails, and adjusted the head to the bed rails. I was still having problems with not getting square cants. The pivot pin for the dogs was sloppy in the hole so when a cant was clamped it would push it out of square. I ground the pipe that is welded to the main frame off and replaced them, that helped a lot but by packing the pipe (holes) with grease before inserting the pivot pin for the dogs it took most of the movement out of them. If I am clamping up high I clamp just enough to hold it in place, down low I will clamp it tight.